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Other Useful Pages
For help with Toyota Door Handle replacement click here
For help with Toyota Sienna Oxygen Sensors click here.
For help with Toyota Sienna Misfire Codes click here.
For help with Toyota Sienna Evap Codes P0446 P0440 P0441 P0442
Read the Story of our Toyota Sludged Engine Repair.
For help programming your remote door lock fob / keyfob
2001 Toyota Sienna P0330
P0325 Knock Sensor Malfunction - Help!
12/13/05 1MZ-FE V6
Inspection time and "oh no!" - your Toyota Sienna FAILS! P0330 or P0325 - Knock Sensor 2 or 1 Malfunction
These little doodads are supposed to adjust the timing when the engine "knocks" apparently. They are essentially microphones - your onboard ECM (computer) uses them to adjust the fuel/timing to avoid piston "knock"
The bad news - the (sensor) dealer cost is $139, your price is nearly $160 or more depending upon the wickedness of your local store. The labor? Probably a million dollars or so.
So now you have x number of days to fix it, run it long enough (100miles.)for the "Readiness Monitors" to go "Ready" (no, you can't just clear the errors and quickly take it back!) then take it back for a retest, avoiding the police in the meantime. Lots of beer required at this point....
The next day, you take aspirin and sell off your golf clubs and a condo in Florida, then buy a replacement sensor (Part # 89615-12090 Sensor, Knock Toyota Denso). Now what? The really bad news is ... they are UNDER the FUEL INTAKE! Better set some time aside for this. You can wait to buy it, in case yours are just loose, but them you have a dead van for a while if it isn't. Mine wasn't loose - rats.
TIP - TAKE LOTS OF DIGITAL PICTURES BEFORE EACH PART IS REMOVED! (WITH A GOOD CAMERA WITH A GOOD SIZED SCREEN)
DRAIN THE COOLANT ! I DIDN'T AND MADE A BIG MESS.
Next start by removing the wipers, then the whole wiper box and grills (as usual!) Annoying but simple. Lots of 10mm bolts and nuts and the wiper motor connector.
Then remove the air intake 4in tube (between the air cleaner and air intake) and then the Air intake or throttle body (held on by 2 bolts and 2 nuts.) You don't have to remove all the cables just tie it up like the picture below. Pull off the brake booster suction line but remember to re-attach it later!
Now attack the fuel intake and pull it around - it is held on by Torx T40 bolts and nuts. Why do they do that?
You don't have to disconnect it all either - just pull it around to the right thus...
Now you have exposed the Knock sensors. Yippee. Remove one end of the 1 1/2in. hose that covers them - don't forget to block off the intakes to prevent any coolant getting in. Tie up this hose - see picture While you've got this much off, you might want to change the rear spark plugs (they are usually impossible to reach with the throttle body on.)
Revealing at last the knock sensors!
I am reliably informed that parts closest to the flywheel are numbered first. (1, then 2 etc.) Thus knock sensor #1 is closest to the flywheel as numbered above. P0330 = Knock Sensor #2 P0325 = Knock Sensor #1.
Use a $2 27mm socket to remove or buy the special tool which probably costs $100.
Here it is - not much for $160 huh?
Here's where things got interesting. The book says "test for continuity" between the contact and ground. If there is continuity then the sensor is bad. Neither of mine were shorted! Now what??? I connected them to an oscilloscope and started tapping on them, (they are essentially microphones after all) The #2 sensor gave a totally different waveform than the #1 sensor and the replacement. Just for grins, however, I put the matching original (that matched my new one's waveform) in the opposite side. (To see if I was correct on sides) BTW Knowing which Sensor is #1 and which #2 took long enough (and I have a subscription to AllData www.alldata.com AND a service manual!)
Installed sensors to 33 ft.lbs as described. then reversed the above to reassemble.
Don't forget! OK I nearly did.
Don't forget the 3 ground lines - 2 in front and 1 in rear.
Better connect all these back too.....
This is what it should look like when you are done. Hopefully you won't have many parts left over...... I never did have the fancy plastic cover so cannot re-install.
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Update : All OK! No codes. Waited about 42 years for most of the "Readiness Monitors" to Set (Texas does accept these things are finicky and let it pass inspection with 1 not set. Recent Oct 08 Decision BTW. You must have no DTC Codes set of course and the MIL (Check Engine) light OFF.
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